Monday 30 May 2011

Stephanie Grace Foy – A Modern Take


Having already been described as “One to Watch” by The Irish Times and as one of the “New Materiologists” by Phillippa Wagner, the London based Irish designer Stephanie Grace Foy is already showing tremendous promise and her collections show modern concepts which are easy, ready-to-wear pieces of bold flowing elegance.

With a look book consisting of draped designs in midnight blues, pewter’s and shades of white, Foy’s collections stand out immediately as being original genius and hugely intriguing. You want to wear the clothes just to see how they fall on the figure and I am drawn to the interesting use of perspex plastic as seen in her MA collection. You wonder how it works but it really does and it adds light and texture, creating a truly daring garment.  Add this to the rest of the collections and you have yourself a daring wardrobe, which empowers all women into a fierce goddess like creature that all women aspire to be.

Foy initially studied at Limerick School of Art and Design in Ireland before moving to London to pursue her studies in fashion whilst gaining valuable experience with the likes of Avsh Alom Gur, Bora Aks and Ossie Clark.
After this time, Stephanie completed her MA in Women’s wear Fashion Design at Kingston University to which she launched her label 'Stephanie Grace Foy'. Foy has since exhibited at Vauxhall Fashion Scout in London and Paris in February 2011. 

Foy divides her time between working as a creative to her own brand as well as a Freelance Pattern cutter to Luxury Labels.

When asked who and what her biggest inspirations are, Foy says that performance art and art and the body are hugely influential factors when it comes to the design process and the women of the 21st century. Artists such as Dante Rossetti, Tamara de Lempicka and performance artists such as Loie Fuller and Laura Anderson have all made an impact on her designs.

Having produced her first collection under her own name, Foy is now focused on developing her label and is currently working on her second collection (S/S11) which she hopes to showcase at London Fashion Week later this year.


http://www.stephaniegracefoy.com/



Friday 20 May 2011

Graduate Fashion Week June 5-8 2011 Earls Court, London


 


 

GRADUATE FASHION WEEK GETS SERIOUS ABOUT THE BUSINESS OF FASHION


With new title sponsor George at Asda, this year Graduate Fashion Week is getting serious about the Business of Fashion. With around 5,000 fashion graduates joining the job market this summer Graduate Fashion Week and George at Asda are keen to create awareness of the breadth of jobs available in the industry beyond the design studio.  From marketing and buying through to visual merchandising, product development and to creating POS and website creatives.

With this in mind the 2O11 event will not only celebrate the work of more than 1,000 of the finest BA Degree Fashion students from 50 Universities across the UK and overseas - it will also offer the opportunity for students and graduates to find out about different careers in the industry.




Alberta Ferretti – Amelle Berrabah – Bonnie Wright – Erin O’Connor & Harold Tilman – David Saunders & Barbara Hulanicki – Rachel Stevens

With 2O years spent at the forefront of promoting creativity and attracting some of the industry's biggest players and most influential international commentators, Graduate Fashion Week is a firm fixture in the diaries of those in the know. The event always attracts attendance from fashion industry faces such as Alberta Ferretti, Kim Jones, Erin O'Connor, Zandra Rhodes, Nicola Robert (Girls Aloud), Bonnie Wright (Harry Potter), Rachel Stevens, Emma Hill (Mulberry), Amelle Berrabah (Sugar Babes), Caryn Franklin, Jeff Banks (President, Graduate Fashion Week) and Harold Tilman (Chairman, British Fashion Council), who all attended the 2010 event.  

The only event of its type in the world Graduate Fashion Week truly is the industry looking glass into the future attracting fashion press from all over the world who are finding increasingly the events catwalks and stands are the best source of inspiration and showcase of trends.


“Graduate Fashion Week is the starting point for the future of British Fashion. It is an event that has an impact on not just our home grown style, but that of the world. Our Graduates are the future of fashion whether it is on the high street or the catwalk. This is the industry's and public's chance to see then first and understand why supporting our British fashion education system is so important. We are delighted that George at Asda has agreed to support us in 2011. At this increasingly difficult time for students, it is more than ever essential that the industry pulls together to help educate the next generation.”
TERRY MANSFIELD CBE, CHAIRMAN, GFW

NEW TITLE SPONSORS FOR 2011
George's involvement in the event marks the start of a new era for the charity. The company is committed to educating young talent about the incredibly diverse array of career opportunities that exist in the fashion industry. It is passionate about supporting new talent and has a wide array of opportunities in its business for which it will be actively recruiting at the event.

“Not everyone can be a designer - but if you are fashion savvy and industry aware, you could make a brilliant buyer, merchandiser, or marketeer.  There are so many routes in, and so many career paths - with lots of opportunities outside London, throughout the UK. We want to use GFW as an opportunity to open the minds of students to consider the possibilities of working for big brands like George, particularly in this difficult climate.  The experience and knowledge you can obtain is invaluable.”
FIONA LAMBERT, CREATIVE DIRECTOR, GEORGE

GOLD AWARD
Graduate Fashion Week's Gold Award is without doubt the most prestigious and sought after Award in fashion education and with a life changing prize of £20,000, this is the chance for GFW to change someone's life forever.  Awarded to Rebecca Thomson of Manchester University School of Art in 2010, last year's Award was judged and presented by Alberta Ferretti, Kim Jones, Lorraine Candy of Elle Magazine and Dylan Jones of GQ.


Rebecca Thomson, winner the Gold Award 2010

Rebecca is studying for an MA at the Royal College of Art.

There is also great attendance from the national and international fashion press, who are finding increasingly the event’s catwalks are the best source of inspiration and showcase of street style trends.


ADDITIONAL SUPPORT
As a charity, Graduate Fashion Week relies on its sponsors to ensure the event continues and it is extremely gratefully to the ongoing support of Mulberry, L’Oréal Professionnel, Hammerson, Lifeline IT, Per AQUUM and Own Label.  New sponsorship has been secured from British premium make-up brand Rimmel London, Karen Millen which is sponsoring the Fashion Portfolio Award, Barclays Bank which is sponsoring the New Business Idea Award and Stuart Peters, the fashion knitwear, jerseywear and outerwear supplier, who are sponsors of the Visionary Knitwear Award.


PROTÉGÉ PROJECT
Now in its second year, the Graduate Fashion Week Protégé Project was a huge success in 2010.  Offering new graduates their first step onto the careers ladder, the campaign resulted in a number of permanent jobs being offered.  Students at Karen Millen, George at Asda, John Lewis, Matches and the Pentland Group amongst others had terrific experiences and have used these as the building blocks to progress their careers.  GFW is continuing to recruit new companies for 2011’s campaign.


GRADUATE FASHION WEEK OPENING TIMES
Sunday 5 – 11.00am – 7.00pm
Monday 6 - 10.30am - 8.00pm
Tuesday, 7 – 10.30am – 6.00pm
Wednesday 8 – 10.30am – 7.30pm

 

   

GRADUATE FASHION WEEK SUNDAY 5 PUBLIC ADMISSION


EXHIBITION ONLY            £5 (NO ADVANCE BOOKING)
UNIVERSITY SHOW       

£10 + £2.50 HANDLING CHARGE INCLUDING EXHIBITION ADMISSION


GRADUATE FASHION WEEK JUNE 5-8 TRADE ADMISSION


EXHIBITION ONLY    £8 (No advance booking)
UNIVERSITY SHOWS    £10 + £2.50 handling charge
GALA SHOW 1 (5.30pm)       £25 + £2.50 booking fee
GALA SHOW 2/AWARDS AND AFTER SHOW PARTY (8.00pm)              £50 + £2.50 booking fee


Tickets for all University shows and the Gala Shows are now available on line - www.gfw.org.uk
and follow us on Facebook and Twitter (@OfficialGFW2011)

All other enquiries - 01903 885 748

GRADUATE FASHION WEEK working in partnership with ARTS THREAD to find graduates jobs worldwide.  www.artsthread.com




Monday 9 May 2011

An interview with Davinia Vitrac – The Dressing Gown company



Dear readers, I have a treat for you! Not only have I been lucky enough to get an interview with Davinia Vitrac, owner of the gorgeous company – The Dressing Gown - which designs glamorous 1950’s inspired dressing gowns but I have secured a 10% discount for all Applaud readers at the till!! Simply type in ‘Applaud’ at the checkout to receive the generous discount available until 31st July 2011!


Read on for my interview with the designer to find out what she is currently sporting trend-wise, why Jean Paul Gaultier is her inspiration and how her honeymoon sparked the start of her business.

Why did you become a Fashion Designer?

Dressmaking has always been a passion of mine.  I have always been fascinated by fashion and clothing; how clothing can present a window into the personality of a person and how an outfit can completely alter how one feels.  I had so many images in my mind of clothing that I would love to wear but that were simply not available so I started at a young age, I began by reviving and reworking pieces of clothing in my parents wardrobes and later I would make my own clothing from scratch.
Who and what are your biggest inspirations?

I take inspiration from everywhere, it is impossible to say where it may come from next but my biggest inspiration in the world of fashion must be Jean Paul Gaultier, not just for the beautiful collections that he has consistently been turning out since the year before I was born but also for his incredible attitude.  Jean Paul Gaultier is unquestionably one of the most influential designers of our time yet he has the most approachable, personable character that does not discriminate or judge, his feet seem firmly on the ground yet his career has achieved unimaginable heights.  One day I will meet and tell him this!

How many collections have you designed?

I am still a student at the international Fashion Academy (IFA) in Paris so my career is just launching.  I have my own business, TheDressingGown.com and I design and manufacture ladies dressing gowns that have been inspired by the silver screen sirens of yesteryear.  Dressing gowns are less seasonal than most collections so I have only designed 2 collections to-date.  I intend to grow the business very quickly to expand our collections to include a dressing gown for every occasion as well as expanding into other lounge wear garments.

What is your favourite gown in your collection?

My favourite piece in our present collection is our Indian Summer gown although my preference changes daily, I recently went on vacation to the Dominican Republic and I wore the long and short version for the entire week, it was the perfect beach cover-up and the most comfortable and elegant evening attire.

What is your personal style?

I like to think that my personal style is 'effortlessly elegant'.  I like to change to my look regularly; I love to team classic pieces in my wardrobe with vintage or modern accents.  Right now I am sporting my current favourite - florescent canary yellow jeans from Marc Jacobs in celebration of the arrival of spring - fun and frivolous florescent yellow is a new look for me!

How would you describe The Dressing Gown collections?

My collections take inspiration from the 1950s screen sirens such as Myrna Loy, Vivien Leigh and Rita Hayworth, my intention is to always create floor length, figure hugging dressing gowns that ooze with the essence of femininity, something that Audrey Hepburn would have been proud of!

I have always loved the old black and white movies, the glamour and elegance that the sirens of the silver screen exuded was captivating to me.  Perhaps it was also that element of the imagination that had to be employed, it was a time when kissing on film was forbidden and nudity was a no-no.  The powers of suggestion were all that could be ultilised and the dressing gown played a key role in that.
Where did the idea come from to form The Dressing Gown?

On 22nd August 2007 I was getting married and with the entire wedding planned and prepared by the close of June I had turned my attention to the honeymoon.  To be fair, there really was little for me to do in this department for the simple reason that my charming and handsome betrothed had planned, booked and paid for the entire two weeks!  In fact all I needed to do was to decide what to pack!
With romantic notions in my head, of breakfasts on the veranda of a honeymoon suite in some far flung corner of the world, I set off in search of the perfect dressing gown that would suitably match such a grandiose occasion.  Having trawled the internet, high street stores and boutiques of Edinburgh, London, Paris and New York I finally came to the realisation that no such garment existed; there was nothing else for it but to make my own!
After designing and making my perfect honeymoon dressing gown, several of my friends and family members asked if I could make also one for them and the idea of a business concept was born!  
Is this your own company or is it a partnership with other designers?
I established the company in August 2008 alongside my husband Francois-Laurent Vitrac.

What are you currently working on?

We are currently working on a warmer, winter collection to compliment our lighter dressing gowns. 

What are your aspirations for the future?

Our mission is to become the number 1 online destination for dressing gowns.  We are going for world domination!



Tuesday 3 May 2011

Amber Hards: yarn for yarn


When I first came across Amber Hards graduate collection – Jellyfish Blooms – my heart skipped a beat. The simplicity of the colour palette beautifully compliments the intricacy of the woven fabrics making for a dazzling and unusual first collection and so I had to find out more!

Amber Hards studied at UWE Bristol getting a first class honours in fashion/textiles.  Inspired by the movement of jellyfish, Hards first collection – Jellyfish Blooms – has shown at London Graduate Fashion Week, Gala Show 1 and some pieces have shown at Shanghai Fashion Week. Hards was also a finalist in the Student Knitted Textile Awards, along with receiving the runner-up prize for the Innovation Award.  Two of Hards outfits have featured in Double magazine and the designer has also worked with the Director / Animator, Ian Emes!

Inspirational designers for Hards include: Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane, Hussein Chalayan, Mark Fast and more recently Louise Goldin - for changing peoples perception of knitwear as it currently stands and turning it on its head. Hards focused her last year at university on knitwear and her favourite piece from her graduate collection contains over 70,000 rows of knit! For me, I found it difficult to choose a favourite, as each item is so unique in its design that I’m a fan of the whole ensemble.

Admitting that her own style is a lot more laid back, wearing a mix of high-street with vintage/charity clothes, she confesses that she isn’t overtly feminine, doesn’t like fuss and isn’t trend-led with her everyday wardrobe.

The designer is currently working on her new collection based on Saturn, again creating new knitted swatches and silhouettes whilst updating her portfolio. Hards says:  “I'm looking at using some thicker yarns and contrasting them again with lighter and stretchy yarns.  I've also recently had my designs used in a short film by Ian Emes and various photo shoots for some magazines”.  Hards is hoping to study an MA at Central Saint Martins and then work in the Fashion Industry designing. This designer is certainly one to watch so keep your eyes peeled for the new collection launching soon!

www.amberhards.co.uk





Saturday 16 April 2011

Alice England: Eclectic mix of style


The first thing I noticed about Alice England’s Graduate Fashion Week 2010 collection was her colour popping designs in figure hugging fabrics; a big nod to the 80’s fashion and a good indication of the quirky imagination from this designer.

Alice England knew from an early age that she wanted to be a Fashion Designer.  The desire to break away from the ‘norm’ of school uniform and the ‘cloning’ system was an early indication that this designer had a sense of personal style and thankfully she went on to pursue her dreams of Fashion!

Attending Liverpool John Moore University (LJMU), Alice has produced 3 collections, The first being “bum bags and furry dice” for her second year at University, then the “Me and Mrs Jones” graduate collection: A/W 2010 club wear collection inspired by the 1980’s shapes and forms, gaming culture and the infamous rubik’s cube and lastly “After Eight” an intriguing all black collection, based on Victorian lampshades, the nature of light and dark and the sordid affairs of goings-on in the dark corners of a drawing room.  The last collection was designed purely for the Young Northwest Designer of the Year Award for which Alice England came second.

Inspirational people for the designer include Azzedine Alaia, Herve Leger, Mark fast, Nathan Jenden, Gareth Pugh, Helmut Newton and Rankin and her favourite piece from all her collections is her 3-dimentional patent-leather Pacman skirt from the “Me and Mrs Jones” collection.  I’m a big fan of this skirt too and I would also like to own one of the fab dresses from the collection – I think my wardrobe needs one!!

The designer states that fashion is all about sex and her cheeky, flirtatious character is reflected in her designs. Alice says, “ I want to emit cheeky, sexy, fun in the wearer. For example, I use a lot of Power mesh, which creates strong connotations of sexuality and voyeurism”. Her personal style is often described as 80’s infused but she also has a love for anything from the late 1960’s to the early 90’s. The palette is often black but states that when she wears colour, she wears a lot and her “Me and Mrs Jones” collection expresses her style the best.

Alice England is currently working on her new collection “Go Faster” which is inspired by road signs and she confesses that she is literally inspired by anything. A single idea can launch a whole new collection, which keeps her designs fresh, real and fun. Favourite fabrics can be seen throughout the collections such as mesh and lycra and black is also a common denominator with bursts of colour. Debbie Harry and Rihanna are strong contenders for the position of ‘muse’ for the designer.

Overall, the designer shows great dexterity and I am looking forward to seeing the “Go Faster” collection when it débuts along with the launch of her own label in the future.

Graduate collection is now available to buy at www.artistspringboard.com






Saturday 9 April 2011

Castomization of clothes – an interview with Paulina Palian



I first came across Paulina Palian at the ‘I Love Runway’ fashion show in London last July and I loved Paulina’s energy. Her enthusiasm for Fashion Design is infectious and she inspires a passion for what she does. Her playful collections are serious works of art especially her collection - Castomization Blue Inzo - which I was fortunate enough to see live on the catwalk. Her bright and bubbly personality really shines through her designs and after following her work for almost a year, she was a natural choice for interview to find out what she’s been getting up to since.

I caught up with the Polish born designer to find out what inspires her, why she chooses Bjork and how often she’s a secret spy….

Why was 'Fashion Design' your career of choice? 

To be honest it wasn’t a conscious choice. As a little girl I wanted to be a Scientist. I remember I was 6 and my mother - who is a chemistry teacher - told me about an amazing woman, Maria Sklodowska-Curie who was a Polish born Chemist who won two Nobel prizes. I was so proud to find out about it. Then, like most girls, I wanted to be a Singer/Performer and was even in a few school musicals. But after High School I decided to apply to the University of Economics. In the mean time my son was born and as a young mum and student, my budget was small. But thanks to my creativity and those conditions, I started to re-make garments I found in second hand shops. Finally in 2004 I said goodbye to Economic Studies and I made my first Collection: Castomization 2004.

Who and what are your biggest inspirations? 

People. People are absolutely amazing, beautiful and so surprising. Strong women. Both those who are working at home – doing the most difficult work on this planet- raising their kids and those who have committed their lives to their careers.

I am also a fan of tradition, history of art and fashion and last but not least- folk. We need to know where we come from and who we are, and for me, the first step to find it, is through those who inspire me. I spend a lot of time researching online, looking for new exciting ideas, and I also love to observe London’s crowd - putting on shades to secretly spy on new street fashion trends! Mix those all together; add a piece of my personality and these are my creations.

How many collections have you designed? 

Taking into consideration I’ve started quite late, I think I might say I have designed quite a few collections so far. Unfortunately, due to financial struggles not all of them have been made. Until now, I have made 5 collections: Castomization 2004 I’ve mentioned before, HOP SA SA- my diploma collection (2008), S/S 2009, Moon Lady (2009) and last year Castomization Blue Inzo. I am very excited about my new collection coming up soon and hopefully this year, I will launch my first commercial collection- fingers crossed.

What is your favourite piece/outfit? 


Shoes!! This is one of few things I can’t make myself- I love shoes and should not be allowed in shoe shops ;) I like bracelets a lot too.

What is your personal style? 

We, Paulina Palian, have 2 lives and 2 personal styles. One is the Fashion Designer, Stylist and Graphic Artist: quirky, colourful but at the same time sexy and feminine. The second is Paulina Palian a mother: very comfortable, lots of greys with some black. But do not be surprised to have these two mixed and you get baggy tracksuit bottoms with high heels and made to measure jackets.

How would you describe your collections? 

I think all my collections are very different but at the same time I hear that they have a common denominator- me, which I am glad to hear, as it sounds as if I have a certain style. Although HOP SA SA is a very colourful, girly collection, inspired by Polish folk and street fashion; in a way you can say it was designed by the same person who made Moon Lady- a more sophisticated collection of evening silk dresses.

How do you want women to feel when wearing your clothes? 

I want them to feel beautiful and confident. Then I believe they will be happy. I tend to take all my styling knowledge and design clothes that will be covering the false and bring up what is beautiful in us. And I want to promote healthier and more athletic looking sizes in fashion. We are getting there slowly but hopefully aiming right.

If you could choose anyone to wear your designs, who would you chose? 

Oh I have two ladies that pop up in my mind straight away: Bjork would be my number one and another is Roisin Murphy. I admire them both a lot because of their talents and fashion sense. These are the dreams, but I have to say, that all the personal assignments and made-to-measure orders are like an adventure - new journey. I like challenges, I will design and make almost anything.

What are you currently working on? 

At this moment, except for being a Freelance Fashion Designer and Graphic Artist, I am also the Fashion Creative Director of Lejdiz Magazine. It is a brand new magazine we are building from scratch and is published in the UK. I am also the Fashion Promoter of Freak Art Show Collective with Boro Young and the amazing Freak Family team who create monthly events to promote: Photographers, Painters, Fashion Designers and Graphic Artists; DJ’s and Musicians; Performers and Dancers - you name it! So yes, very busy! I am really looking forward to some one-to-one time with my sewing machine and just being able to create new garments.

What are your hopes for the future? 

First step would be London Fashion Week I guess. Then a boutique with my label and being able to live a stable and happy life with my lovely family from what I earn through my creativity.

Interview in the words of Paulina Palian herself.
First Image: Collection: Castomization Blue Inzo 2010 - Photography by Inzajeano Latif
Second image: Collection: Moon Lady 2009 - Photography by fashionmedia.pl/
Third image: Collection: Hop SA SA S/S 2009 - Photographer: Cécile Sayuri





Sunday 3 April 2011

Alice Early: Beautiful, Beautiful, Beautiful.


I love fashion. I love wearing it, seeing the new trends emerge and seeing those trends on others but my favourite aspect is coming across new fashion designers who really grab my attention and spark my interest. This happened when I stumbled across the recent fashion graduate Alice Early. Alice showcased her collection at Graduate Fashion Week 2010 and since then, her reputation has grown and catapulted her into the designers arena of “one to watch”.

Alice Early’s collection is well tailored, well balanced, fresh cut pieces of beautiful blues, creams, blacks, browns and pretty prints.  Elegant, luxury pieces that are fabulous worn individually but complement each other as a whole. The collection is so wearable and if owned in it’s entirety, would keep you well dressed every day for a whole season.  It’s hard to choose my favourite outfit from the collection when I want it all, but if I could only pick one piece, it would have to be the black leather and white cotton dress for its clean lines and mix of fabrics. I am also a slave to anything black leather!

Graduating with a 1st in Women’s Fashion Design from Kingston University, Alice has since taken part in various competitions and was shortlisted for the WGSN Global Fashion Awards. Alice is currently focusing on her role as Design Assistant for Twenty8Twelve and hopes to launch her own label in the future.

To say I am excited by this designer is a slight under statement. I will be closely following Twenty8Twelve to see her develop her designs and look forward to the day that her own label is launched. I will be first in the queue!